Versace

Gianni Versace S.p.A. è un’azienda italiana di moda e abbigliamento, con sede a Milano, fondata nel 1978 dallo stilista Gianni Versace e condotta dopo la sua morte dalla famiglia: il fratello Santo Versace e la sorella Donatella Versacementre la figlia di Donatella, Allegra Versace Beck, è diventata l’azionista di controllo avendo ricevuto in eredità la quota dello zio Gianni.

Nel settembre 2018 l’azienda è ceduta allo stilista americano Michael Kors, la famiglia Versace avrà una quota di minoranza nella nuova società capogruppo, la Capri Holdings.

Gianni Versace, lavora fin da piccolo al fianco della madre nella sartoria di famiglia, fino al 5 febbraio 1972, giorno in cui lascia la città di Reggio Calabria, per trasferirsi a Milano, dove inizialmente disegna alcune collezioni per Florentine Flowers. Nello stesso anno collabora con De Parisini di Santa Margherita, ed il nome di Gianni Versace comincia a circolare fra gli addetti al lavoro negli ambienti della moda De Parisini di Santa Margherita. Nel 1976 a Milano arriva Santo Versace, fratello maggiore di Gianni, laureato in economia e commercio, ed in possesso di uno studio a Messina. I due fratelli, insieme a Claudio Luti, decidono di aprire una azienda che porti il nome di Gianni. Già nel marzo del 1978 la prima collezione Versace sfila a la Permanente di Milano, riscuotendo grande apprezzamento.

Al 1979 risale l’inizio di un’importante collaborazione dell’azienda con il fotografo Richard Avedon, che firmerà alcune delle più celebri campagne pubblicitarie del marchio. In seguito Versace si affiderà per i propri lavori ad altri importanti fotografi come Helmut NewtonBruce WeberSteven Meisel e Herb Ritts. Grande attenzione viene rivolta nei confronti della ricercatezza dei materiali ed i suoi accostamenti inconsueti. Nel frattempo le collezioni Versace diventano sempre più rivoluzionarie e spregiudicate: nel 1981, vengono presentati futuristici abiti in maglia di metallo mentre alla fine degli anni ottanta viene presentato un look in stile sadomaso, che fa gridare allo scandalo i mass media. Ciò nonostante nell’aprile del 1995 la rivista Time lo nomina uomo del momento. Nel 1988 entra nell’azienda la sorella minore di Gianni e Santo, Donatella, a cui viene affidata la direzione del marchio Versus, linea giovane Versace. Nel 1991, nasce il marchio Versace Signature e nel 1993 Versace Home Collection, dedicata al design di interni. All’inizio degli anni novanta viene sviluppato anche il progetto Atelier sperimentale laboratorio per la realizzazione di collezioni d’alta moda, presentati per la prima volta, nel gennaio 1990 a Parigi. Dal 1988 le linee VersusVersace Jeans Couture e Versace Jeans Signature vengono distribuite su licenza dalla IT Holding. Nel 1993 viene diagnosticato allo stilista una rara forma di cancro nella parte interna dell’orecchio. Versace riesce a riprendersi dal cancro, ma decide in seguito a tale esperienza ad affidare parte dei suoi affari ai propri famigliari.Il 50% resta a Gianni, le restanti quote appartenevano al 30% a suo fratello maggiore, Santo ed il restante 20% alla sorella più giovane, Donatella.

Il 15 luglio 1997, l’azienda ed il mondo intero viene sconvolto dalla notizia della morte di Gianni Versace, assassinato nella propria villa a Miami Beach, da Andrew Cunanan. La morte dello stilista, che lascia tutta la sua quota alla nipote Allegra di 11 anni, porta una inevitabile crisi economica del marchio, fino all’arrivo nell’azienda nel 2004 di Giancarlo Di Risio, nominato amministratore delegato del Gruppo, che riorganizza l’azienda, eliminando alcune licenze e tagliando alcuni costi. Anni dopo Santo Versace dichiarerà “Ci abbiamo messo due anni per riprenderci dalla sua morte. Ma Gianni non è veramente morto, possiede oggi la stessa forza di quando era vivo“. Dopo la morte dello stilista, il posto di direttore creativo del brand è passato a Donatella Versace. Nel 1998 viene organizzata un’esposizione postuma sullo stilista presso il Metropolitan Museum of Art di New YorkNell’ottobre 2002 viene organizzata presso il Victoria and Albert Museum di Londra l’esposizione Gianni Versace at the VA, mostra dedicata alla vita ed alle opere dello stilista, a cura della scrittrice Claire Wilcox, autrice del libro The art and craft of Gianni Versace. Nel 2007 viene pubblicato il libro Il mito Versace dedicato alla vita della stilista, scritto da Minnie Gastel.

Dopo la crisi aziendale del 2001-2002, Fabio Massimo Cacciatori nel 2003 ne avvia il risanamento. Dal 2004 amministratore delegato del gruppo è l’isernino Giancarlo Di Risio, proveniente da IT Holding. Nel luglio 2009 è nominato nuovo amministratore delegato Gian Giacomo Ferraris proveniente da Jil Sander Group, creando le linee Versace Collection e Versace Jeans e portando l’azienda ad operare sia nell’alta moda che nel prêt-à-porter. Nel giugno 2016 arriva Jonathan Akeroyd, che ha ricoperto fino all’inizio di maggio 2016 la carica di CEO di Alexander McQueen.

Nel febbraio 2014 il 20% della controllante GiVi holding (il 30% in mano a Santo Versace, il 20% a Donatella Versace, il 50% a Allegra Versace Beck) è stato acquisito dal fondo americano Blackstone Group per 210 milioni di euro, valutando la società un miliardo di euro.

La tipica medusa logo dell’azienda, particolare del cancello della residenza di Gianni Versace a Miami Beach

Nel settembre 2018 l’azienda viene acquisita interamente (l’80% della famiglia Versace e il 20% di Blackstone) dallo stilista e imprenditore americano Michael Kors per 1,83 miliardi di euro (2,12 miliardi di dollari). Con l’acquisizione il gruppo di Michael Kors, Michael Kors Holdings, quotato a Wall Street, cambia nome in Capri Holdings perché l’isola è vista come simbolo di glamour e di lusso. Donatella Versace rimane come direttore creativo della azienda; inoltre lei, la figlia e il fratello ricevono 150 milioni di euro in azioni di Capri Holdings. La decisione di vendere è stata presa, dirà Donatella Versace, per far raggiungere al marchio “il suo maggiore potenziale”. Jonathan Akeroyd rimane alla guida dell’azienda come amministratore delegato.

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